STL Acquires Christian Lacroix: A New Chapter for a Baroque Fashion Icon

On January 8, 2025, Spanish textile group Sociedad Textil Lonia (STL) announced the full acquisition of French luxury brand Christian Lacroix. This deal signals both a new phase for the once-revered fashion house and STL’s growing ambition in the high-end fashion market.

The Glory Days of Christian Lacroix: The Baroque King

Founded in 1987 by Christian Lacroix, the eponymous brand became known for its ornate, theatrical designs, rich embroidery, bold color combinations, and intricate tailoring. Inspired by European aristocracy and traditional attire from his hometown of Arles, Lacroix’s creations embodied an opulent, romantic aesthetic that quickly cemented his status in haute couture during the 1980s and 1990s.

His dramatic silhouettes, exuberant prints, and luxurious embellishments captivated the fashion world, making Christian Lacroix a leading name in Parisian haute couture.

From Peak to Decline: The Struggles of a Creative Powerhouse

Despite its artistic brilliance, the brand struggled financially. Lacroix was initially backed by LVMH, but the high costs of haute couture made profitability elusive. In 1995, LVMH decided to sell the brand, and it changed hands multiple times over the following years.

By 2005, shifting market dynamics and the decline of the haute couture sector placed Christian Lacroix in a precarious position. In 2009, financial difficulties forced the brand into bankruptcy proceedings, ultimately leading to the discontinuation of its couture business.

The Attempted Reinvention: Licensing and Collaborations

Following its restructuring, Christian Lacroix transitioned from couture to a licensing model, leveraging its brand prestige in fragrances, home decor, and accessories. The brand collaborated with Desigual, Roche Bobois, and other companies, using cross-industry partnerships to maintain relevance.

While this approach kept the brand operational, it lacked a core product line under its direct control. Over time, Christian Lacroix became increasingly dependent on external partners for market presence. Without a cohesive long-term vision or investment, the brand’s influence gradually faded.

The challenges of maintaining a licensed-only business model, combined with increasing competition in the luxury sector, made it difficult for Christian Lacroix to sustain independent growth. Ultimately, the brand needed a strategic owner with strong resources and industry expertise, leading to STL’s acquisition.

Christian Lacroix: An Artist Caught Between Vision and Reality

Christian Lacroix’s journey has been one of artistic triumph and commercial struggles. His visionary approach made him a celebrated couturier, but the fashion industry’s commercial realities proved difficult to navigate.

In 2009, following the brand’s bankruptcy, Lacroix expressed deep sadness over its collapse. He acknowledged that pure artistic vision does not always align with business strategy, a realization that many designers face.

Even after stepping away from his namesake brand, Lacroix continued his creative pursuits in costume design, interior decor, and artistic collaborations. He embraced the philosophy that design extends beyond fashion, it is an atmosphere, a way of life, an expression of joy.

Though he has remained largely silent about the brand’s latest acquisition, the industry sees this as a turning point. Lacroix, now more focused on artistic endeavors, has seemingly left the fate of his brand to the market.

Can STL Bring Lacroix Back to the Spotlight?

With this acquisition, STL is expanding its footprint in luxury fashion, positioning itself to revitalize the Christian Lacroix brand. Under STL’s leadership, the fashion house may experience a creative and commercial resurgence, reclaiming its place in

the luxury landscape.

As STL moves forward, all eyes will be on how it navigates the delicate balance between honoring Lacroix’s artistic legacy and adapting to modern fashion consumers. Will Christian Lacroix return to its former glory, or will it undergo yet another transformation? The industry eagerly awaits its next chapter.